Blog Tour 2014-15 - Chilled Out On La Dole

Yesterday was an exhausting day, so I enjoyed a wonderful morning spent writing up activities for this blog, hey it doesn't write itself you know!

I wanted somewhere local to go to and just chill out in the warm afternoon sun and reorganise the slush all about the mountain. Heading to nearby La Dole on the French/Swiss border would give a little variety, yet take only 30 minutes to reach.

La Dole - just 30 minutes away on the French/Swiss border

It is essentially a great big hill, well served by a detachable chairlift from the car park up to the peak. You can pick your route down; follow the fall-line off piste if you want a challenge, or put in a giant traverse and take the easy route down or any number of subtle variations in between.

La Dole - just a big hill

As ever, you get a few curious looks and the usual frequently asked questions. But otherwise it is a chilled out spot to noodle around in the snow or enjoy a spot of late lunch and watch the world go by. I also got the chance to finally taste the Les Brasseurs Savoyard Myrtille flavoured beer that I was given recently and very tasty it was too.

Les Brasseurs Savoyard beer - tasty

Blog Tour 2014-15 - House Hunting Time

Well today has been a very different sort of day out, to say the very least. Leaving at midday for a pleasant drive through the countryside, steadily following the river Giffre upstream to the village of Morillon, a few kilometres from Samoens and on the edge of Grand Massif domain.

The Giffre valley - this area no longer feels foreign

Flooded by the warm sunlight, bouncing over the ruts and potholes of this familiar road, this area no longer feels at all foreign. It has now been four years since I started coming to this region; in many ways this is now home and it is London which feels more and more alien with each passing year.

I have to face the fact that I have never really fitted in with British life at home; I don't like football, I don't care a jot about the TV soaps, the Royal Family or brainless tabloid newspaper gossip column celebrity tittle tattle.
Many of my on-line friends are based outside of the UK, many I have never met, yet I feel I know them better than any of my countrymen. In London, only the tourists smile as they grab their selfies on London Bridge; anyone who has to endure living in London bears the grimace of stress and hardship as if it were a badge of honour. Croydon is becoming more like a war zone, tensions are permanently high, there have been riots, you can be stabbed to death for looking at someone the wrong way, or because they want your bicycle!

Hanging on in quiet desperation is the English way.... (Pink Floyd - Time) 

My family have a history of itchy feet; my Scottish and Irish grandparents escaped rural poverty for a better life in Liverpool, whilst my Hungarian and Czech grandparents fled first from Hitler and then Stalin. The time has come to face the fact, that my relationship with my home country has withered and died, it is time to seriously consider pulling up the dead roots and find out whether there is a more fertile soil elsewhere in which to plant them.

Les Chenets estate agency in Morillon

I have been to Morillon many times, it is the perfect route from Geneva to access the Grand Massif domain, just an hour from the front door to the mountains on a good day. The Les Chenets estate agency is a short walk from gondola lift station.
I met the charming and efficient Frédérique who took me on a swift tour around four properties in Morillon and two in Samoens. It was entertaining to switch languages back and forth like a linguistic slalom course.

Morillon - who could resist walking up to a view like this?

Each place had its plus and minus points, I now need a period of reflection to sort them all out and see which one would be the best compromise; who could resist waking up to a view like this?

Blog Tour 2014-15 - Valloire Galibier Here There Be Dragons

Valloire and Valmeinier are two adjacent ski resorts in the Maurienne valley, yet another mysterious and almost mythical winter sports destination that I have had in my sights to ride. Geographically, it is the next valley due South of the ever popular 3 Valleys domain. The piste map for Val Thorens hints that it is accessible by heading over the Cime Carron and down via Orelle. My impression was that it was uncharted territory, a bit like the "Here there be dragons" marked on the navigation charts of the ancient mariners.

To make the trip to Valloire, even giving it my best shot, it would be 120 miles each way and that's a long way from Geneva, even more so for a day trip, especially on my own. Miss the correct motorway exit for Valloire and after Modane, the locals will be speaking Italian.

Mamma Mia, che diavolo è questo Inglese facendo qui!

Fortunately for the Italians, Thierry has also been planning to break new ground here, thus I only had to make the hour or so journey to his chalet and for the remainder of the journey I would be chauffeured there in the new Skibike Blog Tour Bus.

Valloire - Miss the correct motorway exit and the locals will be speaking Italian

This is one of Thierry's many "Big Boy's Toys", a Dodge Ram Pick-up, a monster of a thing, the pictures on the Internet don't quite do justice to its leviathan proportions. With a 5.7 litre petrol V8 engine. it will consume more fuel per second sitting at the traffic lights than my little Fiesta will running at full tilt. Thankfully for the French gross national debt, it has been converted to run on L.P.G.
With its 4 x 4 transmission and low range locking differentials engaged it will plough through 50 cm of fresh snow, without even needing chains on the tyres; whilst the automatic transmission and well insulated cab provide a truly "magic carpet" ride quality.
Yes, I have to confess, I was seduced then taken by the brute; sometimes when a lady says "No", she really means "Yes". I could never own such a beast, not for any environmental or even economic reasons; it's simply too long to fit on my driveway and having any vehicle in London with a 10 km turning circle is an exercise in futility.

Dodge Ram - I was seduced and taken by the brute

In the surreal early morning sun light, wafted down the Autoroute as if by some mighty and unstoppable force of nature, the views of the massifs and buttes looked as American as the vehicle we were travelling in. Before I knew it, we were climbing the hairpin bends towards the resort of Valmenier.
Thierry had already received confirmation from the Valloire Galibier tourist office that we would be able to ride our skibikes all over the domain, both in Valmenier and Valloire. However the lady in the lift pass kiosk was having none of it and insisted that this would not be the case; instead we would have to go to neighbouring resort of Valloire where our perverted hybrid sports were tolerated.

Valloire - where skibiking is permitted

Therefore we didn't actually hit the snow at Valloire till 11:00, which at the end of the day was probably no bad thing, because even then some piste were lethally icy. The "blood wagon" stretcher was notably in action at various points during the and even the helicopter and Gendarmerie were present at the scene of one accident.

Luckily we skibikers were off having a ball playing in the off-piste, weaving round obstacles and grinding over rocks with impunity. We were obviously somewhat of a novelty to the lifties, but as has happened elsewhere, many turned out to be serious downhill mountain bikers and were very curious about our rides. In deference to their way of doing things here, we wore our leashes even whilst riding. Hopefully by now they have seen that we are just crazy old geezers out having some fun and not even at anybody else's expense.

Valloire - we are just crazy old geezers out having some fun

To avoid queuing and avoid some treacherous icy spots, we played around on some nice easy runs, before heading off-piste, once the crust had softened enough to break through to the soft snow underneath. We skipped lunch to make the most of the limited riding time we had left, including a memorable flat out run down the blues and greens back to the base station at Valloire to end the day, spraying slush and water in all directions.

With a 04:00, early morning alarm call and just 3 hours sleep the night before, I was exhausted and fitfully dozed between conversations on the way back, as did the driver. Sorry Thierry, I don't know how coherent I was, my French isn't that strong and the soporific waves kept flooding over me; next time I will take drugs!

Valloire - the skibikers were having a ball playing in the off-piste

In conclusion, with easier access from Italy than France, Valloire would make a great spot for a novice Italian skibiker from Milan or Turin to get in some riding experience. Particularly as their homeland has yet to wake up to the possibilities offered by skibiking.
Although Valloire has charm and a distinct Gallic/Italianate cross-over vibe, it is a little too remote to recommend for the average foreign holiday maker. The lift infrastructure at Valloire was very good for a smaller resort and the attitude in Valloire commendable, which is more than can be said of Valmeinier, which quite frankly, can "Kiss my Chuddies" buddy for wasting our precious time.

Many thanks to Stephan for the gift of the Myrtle berry beers that was a most unexpected treat, I shall find something suitable British to endow upon you next time round. Special thanks to Thierry for handling all the correspondence, setting up the trip, driving the two or so hours each way and once again resolutely refusing to accept my offer to pay for my share of gas and tolls.

Blog Tour 2014-15 - Les Arcs In The Cross-Hairs

Continuing the theme of breaking fresh ground with skibikes, the next resort in the cross-hairs was Les Arcs; a place with a long history of introducing France to the "Nouvelles Glisses" or new sliding methods.

Les Arcs was a pioneer of the "progressive skiing technique", where you start on short skis and work your way up on to progressively longer ones as your skills improve. From the outset you parallel ski and never need to adopt the awkward habits of the snowplough. As someone who discovered the joy of short skis after years of pain on long ones, I think it is a brilliant idea. But then I'm not a professional ski instructor with a vested interest in keeping people learning for as long as absolutely possible.

Les Arcs - home of Nouvelles Glisses

Les Arcs is also the self proclaimed "home of (French) snowboarding", this was the place where the snowboard broke out of the snow park and became accepted as an all mountain machine. To say that there are parallels with the history of modern freestyle skibikng would be an understatement.

As a purpose built resort Les Arcs offers the visitor one of the easiest drives possible, along a fast, low inclined road up to the market town of Bourg Saint Maurice where you can park your car and take a rapid funicular train up to Arcs 1600. The journey is stated as 7 minutes, I wasn't counting, instead I was chatting with Alan, a retired Brit living in the area the whole year round, best keep that fact a secret from the French tax authorities Alan!

Little and Large - Les Arcs is an easy drive

The official line at Les Arcs is that skibikes are permitted to use all the detachable chair lifts, as well as the gondolas and cable cars. Hilariously one of the chair lifts even has a "no skibikes" sign, just in case you don't know the rules.

In practice, Thierry and I had no problem getting around, although there was noticeable overcrowding of the core lift infrastructure, with waiting times of 15 minutes at the Transarc gondola and up to 45 minutes possible to access the Aiguille Rouge cable car.

We discussed this matter over a beer and hot pannini by the top of the Grizzly chair lift and both felt that as this is a €50 plus a day resort, the cost ought to be better reflected in the efficiency of the lift system.

Skibiker sandwich - the lift infrastructure was over crowded

In the morning we remained quite low at Les Arcs to avoid the queues, and enjoyed some excellent, if a tad icy, tree lined runs above Vallandry. There was no shortage of open cruising blue runs either, some of which were of the "Motorway" type, almost as wide as they were long. Ideal territory for any novice skibiker, or those who just love to traverse and hate switching edges. There were some steeper red grades, perfect for doing a spot of foot down super carving on. However the ice was distinctly treacherous on the busier "easy" routes leading into the village, making them more difficult that the expert areas in some regards. If I remember correctly the blood wagon was out on multiple occasions, just whilst we were riding about.

Les Arcs - expert skibike terrain higher up

The really expert terrain is to be found heading off the Aiguille Rouge, but having waited all day for a lull in the lift queues we only managed to get as high as the top of the Varet gondola. We could have waited a further 20 minutes, but not knowing the resort intimately, didn't want to risk missing the closure of the Bois de L'Ours connecting chairlift; so headed back to Arcs 1600 for the funicular ride back down.

Les Arcs - vast off-piste available

All in all it was a great day at Les Arcs, there would be plenty here to please a new skibiker wanting to garner some confidence building mileage. The interconnection with neighbouring, skibike friendly La Plagne would further extend both the range and variety on offer. For the expert it would be worth a long weekend visit to explore the high altitude areas and vast off-piste; some of which made my gonads shrivel. Gnarly goes nowhere near describing their intimidating appearance. 

But you might have to go in the off season to fully enjoy the experience, if like me, you can't stand queues.

Blog Tour 2014-15 - Val Thorens Giant Steps

What a difference a day makes, yesterday I was riding in a small, quaint, rural ski resort and today I would be switching to the 3 Valleys, quite possibly the largest interlinked ski domain in Europe. Last season I explored the Meribel and Courchevel side, but today I would be heading to the highest point at Val Thorens.

Val Thorens is somewhere I have not been since my first weeks of skiing twenty years ago, it was all so new to me then. But I recall being amazed that all the slopes were above the tree line, lending the place an ethereal lunar quality. I imagine it's all well and good when the sun is shining and the weather is clement, but it must be brutal in blizzard conditions.

My companion for the day would be Kevin, who I think is now into his second or possibly third week of skibike riding. There was no real agenda, just another opportunity to mooch around the resort and have some fun.

Kevin - he didn't say a word, but he did laugh a lot

I chose to drive up as far as Les Menuires, rather than go the whole hog and use it as our rendezvous point. We found each other and set about making our way up to Val Thorens.
Here's where the glitz of the 3 valleys tarnishes a little, the first lift operators we encountered didn't want us on at all, as our leashes weren't attached to our feet! We weren't going anywhere in a hurry and they let us on eventually so we would stop cluttering the place up. I suspect this part might be under the control of the same company that runs St. Martin de Belleville lower down the valley and they just haven't caught up with the skibike beat yet.
Once out of Les Menuires and into Val Thorens itself there were no major issues with chairlifts to report and we didn't choose to ride any of the cable cars or gondolas.

Anything within spitting distance of a blue run was tracked out

The price to ride here is high at €54.30, but then so is the altitude and it really shows in both the quality and quantity of snow. Most pistes were perfect packed down powder snow, but not overly groomed, here there are no issues with freeze-thaw cycles. But it was really the off-piste conditions that blew me away. Anything that was within spitting distance of a blue run was totally tracked out, but still a delight to ride. Straying off the more challenging red runs, were where the really good stuff was to be found. Huge mountainsides, piled high with powder snow and nothing to do all afternoon but go just a little berserk in it.

Nothing to do all afternoon but go just a little berserk

Kevin managed brilliantly after I lead him onto some pretty daunting slopes and we both had our fair share of wipe outs. There again if you don't crash once or twice, you're just not trying hard enough. I even managed a few diddy jumps, I seem to be getting better at the take off, now I need to work on the landings.

Kevin managed brilliantly on some daunting slopes

In conclusion, Val Thorens is a very favourable location to go skibiking if you can afford the overheads. You are spoiled for choice and can head down to Les Menuires if you want variety. Opt for the 3 Valleys ski pass and Meribel, La Tania, Le Praz and Courchevel are waiting for you. Sadly St Martin de Belleville hasn't openend its lifts to skibikes, nor has Orelle the 4th valley, but I live the in hope I will see it in my lifetime.

Blog Tour 2014-15 - Areches Beaufort, Heading Off The Grid

Today I headed back out, to ride with Kevin in Val Thorens and later Thierry in Les Arcs. En route I will be stopping at somewhere I found whilst pouring over the regional map and spotted a load of lifts marked where there really shouldn't be any.

The place in question is Areches Beaufort and early this year I was told that it is now skibike friendly, how could I resist the opportunity to try somewhere new? The town of Beaufort is situated on the D925, a small provincial road that forms a high mountain pass between Albertville and Moutiers. The pass remains closed in the winter, leaving Beaufort to exist in splendid isolation for much of the year. There are few other ski station nearby, Hauteluce being the closest, some 15 km away, vaguely accessible as the back mountain area of the more well known Les Contamines.

Areches Beaufort - existing in splendid isolation

It is very much a rural area, focussed on wood processing, with timber yards and mills aplenty, It is quite characterful and it is hard work to remain focussed on the road and not gawk at the sights.
The ski station at Areches is just above Beaufort town; down in the valley it had been overcast, but on arrival it was exactly like a kitsch snow globe with masses of light snow floating down gently all around.

I had left Geneva at 09:30 and taken the back roads route, so it was nearly 13:00 by the time I reached the kiosk all ready to ride, I was able to buy a 4 hour ticket which cost just €24.70.
Areche has two detachable chairlifts, Grand Mont is right in the centre of town, there was no queue and I just hopped on, no questions asked, just a jolly "Bonjour" from the operator.
At the top, there is a good choice of runs, I picked the Perches red run that leads straight to the other detachable chair called Piapolay.

There was about 3 inches of fresh powder snow on top of a base of icy hard packed artificial snow, giving the run somewhat of a "Iron fist in a velvet glove" feel to it. It was gorgeous on the flatter sections, but with a bite to it on any sort of gradient.
At Piapolay the only way back to Areches is via the Boullevard de liaison, a small piste that follows the river down through the woods, it is a delightful run to enjoy pretty views of the many chalets and trees. I would guess that when the snow is poor there must be a shuttle bus to serve the same purpose.

Areches Beaufort - it was 13:00 by the time I was ready to ride

I popped back to the car for some munchies and the clouds began to lift and the majesty of the surrounding mountains was revealed from behind their veil. I took this as the perfect cue to bag the black run down from the top of the Grand Mont chairlift. It didn't seem that difficult viewed from the chairlift, but once on it the pitch is unnerving, it is also rather ridge like, opportunities to run off are few and of course it's all bumps as a result. To my advantage it was all soft, fresh, natural snow so I plotted a steady path down using lots of short swing turns, although I do feel that I deserved an "I was brave" badge at the bottom.

I do feel that I deserved an "I was brave" badge at the bottom

With a couple of hours left, I pottered around testing out the many trails, it should be noted that some are only accessible by drag lift, such as those on the Col de la Forclaz.

In conclusion, Areches is a charming small resort, which in many ways serves as a glimpse into a less commercial past. There's no modern glitz, no giant screens shouting advertising at you wherever you look, a pleasant relief from the marketing overload that so many bigger resorts can exhibit.
This type of place has nothing to offer those who come just to show off, instead there seemed to be a broad mix of all ages present, busy using all the many types of snow sliding disciplines which now includes freestyle skibiking.
Blog reader Roger may also be keen to hear that there are winter footpaths, including one for snow shoes all the way to the top of the Col de la Forclaz, with an altitude of 2320 metres.
It is unlikely you would want to come here for a whole week of skibiking, but there's certainly plenty enough to keep you entertained for a long weekend skibiking at Areches Beaufort.

Areches Beaufort - plenty enough for a long weekend skibiking

For Sale - Custom Built Freestyle Skibike - £450

Custom freestyle skibike for sale - Just £450

The original " Green Beastie " skibike is up for sale, it was a stunningly good skibike right from the start and would suit any beginner to intermediate ski biker. It has an excellent complement of components; with a Magura Odin air rear shock and Rock Shox Judy up front. It has about 150 mm suspension front and rear, the rear has multiple adjustments for your weight and style and at the front, a basic coil spring with pre-load and oil damping. Both haven't missed a beat even in some really cold conditions.

Custom freestyle skibike for sale - 150 mm of suspension travel

At under 10 kg it is light in weight, compared to even the latest American skibikes, including the skis. Its in very good condition, as it was powder coated in 2012 and hasn't been used much since.

MX style folding footpegs - a neat upgrade over normal bike pegs

This is a very easy skibike to learn on and yet solid enough not to get damaged it rides very well too. With its Y shape, it fits the lifts well and with the low top bar, the canopies can be closed on the latest Euro lifts, which does keep the other lift users happy on a cold day.

It can be easily dismantled and fits into a large suitcase, or as I prefer, a wheeled golf travel bag, together with your boots and clothes to travel on an aircraft. At  10 kg, it does leave enough clothes allowance to not need to book another bag.

Its presently fitted with Salomon Snowblades and carbon ski adaptors. The skis will be fully serviced ready to go. The Snowblades are probably a bit narrow for off-piste skibike riding, but never the less, I have spent many a happy day in powder.
Would I change to a wider pair? Probably not if you are learning, but eventually you will fit a wider pair if you are regularly going off-piste. I have a pair of wider Salomon SB10s which you could purchase from me for an additional £50.

So how much will this custom made skibike gem cost you? Just £450 ready to go. If you're interested, please use the contact form to send me a message, or leave a comment below, or join me on the Blog Facebook Group.

Regards

Wayne.

I have included some videos so you can get a flavour of what its like on the snow, enjoy: